The floor joists and the purlins will all be 4"x6" oak. One of the features I want to incorporate is an arc from the tenon into and toward the bottom of the joist/purlin. It will provide a nice aesthetic touch and should help mitigate some of the potential weakening caused by checking as the wood dries. As I considered my intentions, it became clear that I didn't have the right tools for this job. It seemed that a band saw would be a good choice, but a stationary one would present some challenges when working with 12 foot long pieces of oak that weigh 100 pounds or more (depending on how much they've dried while in storage).
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I marked the dovetail and a shallow arc on the end of a short piece of 4"x6" oak that I had in the shop. I then tried to cut it out. When I was done, there was a dove tail tenon on the end of the timber, but the cuts were a bit crooked and wavy. I marked the other end and tried again. Then, I chopped off the first end and tried a third time. By paying careful attention to the orientation of the saw and making sure I stay on the lines on both sides, I was able to cut out a decent dove tail tenon. I'll practice a bit more before I begin on the 100 joists and purlins that I'll need for the frame. But, at least it looks like my idea will work.
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2 comments:
Hi Darryl,
I just read your introduction and am thrilled by the fact that you're going to use straw bales for the walls. Straw is a great choice and I'd really like to encourage you (just in case you should need any encouragement ;):
The walls in our house (16th century) consist of a mixture of clay and straw, plastered with clay. And these walls definitely provide the best "house-climate" I've ever experienced!
Which material are you going to use for plastering?
I've wanted to have straw bale walls in the house for quite a few years for a variety of reasons. I appreciate your encouragement.
I'm planning on using a clay plaster on the bales. The interior will have three coats or so with the final one using a white clay. The exterior will have a good coat and then a wood shingle siding with an air gap between the plaster and the wood.
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